Rolex ROLCO history
ROLCO, etc. After Marconi and Unicorn, Wilsdorf began to employ more distinctive names such as ROLCO, Oyster Watch Company, and several others. One of the well-known names among these is Tudor, which is discussed separately.
It was never a secret that watches under the Marconi, Unicorn, etc., brands were produced for
the Rolex Watch Company. However, they were not explicitly labeled as Rolex watches and
typically lacked the "Rolex" branding. This subtle distinction was part of Wilsdorf's marketing
strategy, and he was adept at manipulating names and brands to shape perceptions. A similar
approach was used by Omega with Tissot in Brazil during an economic downturn in 1935.
The image provided displays a watch movement branded as ROLCO. This movement was manufactured by Beguelin & Cie S.A. or BTCo. (Beguelin, Tramelan & Co.). BTCo. also produced watches under other brand names like Damas and Tramelan Watch Co. The ROLCO movement was customized for Rolex by altering the shapes of the bridges and cocks and adding the name ROLCO to the ratchet wheel. Similar movements from BTCo. were supplied to other companies, including
Ingersoll, with modifications to make them appear distinct. Despite these cosmetic
differences, the underlying components of these movements, such as the bottom plate,
train wheels, escapement, and keyless mechanism, were identical.
In contemporary times, one might come across watches branded as Marconi, Unicorn,
ROLCO, Tudor, etc., advertised (not by Rolex) as "early Rolexes." While this is not accurate,
brand identity is not always straightforward. This aligns with what Wilsdorf had in mind
when creating these subsidiary brands. He wanted buyers of these "other brand" watches to feel like they were getting a Rolex at a more affordable price, while simultaneously convincing others that it was worth paying a premium for a genuine Rolex with the Rolex brand name.
These were early days for marketing and branding. Wilsdorf attempted to establish a
scenario where the "Rolex Watch Company" marketed watches both as Rolex and under
brands like Marconi, Unicorn, ROLCO, Tudor, etc. These watches were offered at different
price points, with Rolex-branded watches being the most expensive and the other brands
catering to lower price ranges, ensuring a watch for every customer. The Rolex Watch
Company's association with all these different brands aimed to provide customers with
confidence that they were receiving a quality timepiece regardless of the price.
Unfortunately, most customers were not concerned about the internal mechanics of the
watch, whether it was a high-quality lever escapement movement by Aegler or a more
affordable mass-produced movement from an ébauche factory. Consequently, some retailers may not have highlighted these differences to customers. Over time, these other brands became synonymous with "Rolex watches," and Wilsdorf's strategy to differentiate them by price and marketing collapsed. If one could purchase a "Rolex watch" with the Unicorn brand at a fraction of the price of a "Rolex watch" with the Rolex label, the choice was clear. This outcome was not Wilsdorf's intent. He wanted those who could afford it to buy Rolex-branded watches, and others to opt for the more budget-friendly brands. However, due to the deliberate association of the Rolex name with the cheaper brands, sales of the latter skyrocketed while pricier watches remained unsold. Wilsdorf eventually abandoned his efforts to maintain the distinctions between the brands, leading to the discontinuation of all other brands except Tudor, which eventually became a separate company.
You may encounter watches from the World War I era with BTCo. movements in silver cases bearing the W&D sponsor's mark and "Rolex" on the case back, with "Marconi Lever" on the movement. Are these Rolex watches? According to my assessment, they are not Rolex watches because they lack Aegler movements and are branded as Marconi. The presence of the Rolex name on the case back might have been an error or, more likely, a result of Wilsdorf's initial willingness to associate the Rolex name with lower-priced Marconi watches. However, he likely realized quickly that this was a mistake.
